Friday, December 28, 2012

TV review: ‘United States of Bacon’

TV review: ‘United States of Bacon’

Just watching Chef Todd Fisher’s report on America’s love affair with bacon will raise your cholesterol probably 20 points.

The first episode of this new 12-part series rapidly becomes an exercise in pure indulgence, consumption with no concern for consequence.

Some of the food Fisher finds on his tour of bacon meccas almost defies description.

Try a couple of large hamburger patties, each with several slices of cheese, topped with multiple slices of bacon and a serving of macaroni and cheese, all crammed into a sandwich between a couple of doughnuts.

When the menu gets that preposterous, Fisher doesn’t pretend he’s eating something the average person orders on a regular basis.

He does suggest that regular patrons of certain restaurants in Milwaukee routinely order bacon sandwiches that include ingredients like peanut butter.

Nor does Fisher merely watch people dig in. He’s an interactive guy, wrapping his mouth around sandwiches that don’t look as if they’d fit and then rhapsodizing about how the bacon flavor kicks in at just the right point in the bite.

He does not at any point suggest excessive bacon might not be an advisable component of a healthy diet. On the contrary, he plays the pied piper of bacon, inviting everyone who loves the stuff to join in.

It’s an entertaining tour, and it's impossible to resist Fisher’s enthusiasm for bacon coupled with a parallel interest in hearing the different brands, cuts and the hog of origin.

And clearly someone is taking all this to the piggy bank.

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